Sedona - Fournos Restaurant

By STEVE AYERS, Staff Reporter - sayers@verdevalleynews.com

As seen in KUDOS-The Good Life,  July 27,2005
www.kudosnaz.com

Mom, love and pastitsio make Fournos a favorite

It is a customary journalistic practice to refrain from using first person. The reason being that first person tends to involve the writer too deeply in the story and put them in conflict with the traditional tenants of detachment and neutrality. The writer's first responsibility is to tell the story, and in the process, stay as far away as possible.Well, in the last year and a half writing for Kudos, I have kept that rule, hard and faBut, in telling the story of Fournos, I am going to make an exception. The reason being that I cannot tell the story of this restaurant and remain either detached or neutral. If you have ever been there you would understand. The story of Fournos starts with the owners, Demetrios and Shirley Fourno. It is a story of a dream, of changes, and of space and time. Demetrios was once a Madison Avenue attorney. His specialty was setting up corporate retirement programs. It was not his idea. Shirley was a widow, living in a big house. Her children had grown and were beginning lives of their own far away. They met one evening at a cocktail party and their discussion soon turned to dreams and their mutual need for change. Demetrios told Shirley of his disillusionment with his life as an attorney and of his lifelong dream to become a chef. Shirley told Demetrios of her need to be with people and of her desire to be closer to her children.

They soon found themselves in California, owning a small sandwich shop with a view of the Pacific Ocean. It brought them closer to their children who were in school close by. They found happiness in the little sandwich shop in Cardiff by the Sea. In many ways it reminded Demetrios of the little candy concession his family owned on Coney Island. It was there that he had first discovered the simple joy of preparing food. It was there that he learned basic culinary skills and an appreciation for economy of space. Later he would refine those skills at the Culinary Institute of America and in time he was invited to become a member of the Chaine Des Rotisseures, an organization that is pretty much the top rung for chefs.When one of the daughters moved to Phoenix, the two came to visit and began to explore the state. Like most who make it to the red rocks, they fell in love with the place. In 1982 they opened Fournos Restaurant in West Sedona.

It is shortly thereafter that I enter the story. One evening in Sedona, on business, a friend suggested trying a little Greek restaurant where a first-class chef put out some of the absolute best Mediterranean dishes this side of the Aegean. I am not one to seek the most expensive food in town just to say I have been there and done that. Don't get me wrong, I love good food. More precisely, I live for good food. My tastes, however, are much more identified with the dining experience, which most often is no more than good friends at a cozy diner. Well, guess what? That night I found it all in one place. Great food, in a very relaxed atmosphere, warm and sincere hosts and an experience I knew I would never forgot. Coming to Fournos was like coming home to my parent's house, only the food was better. I became "Steve from Phoenix" and Shirley became, for lack of a better term, mom. For several years thereafter, I would go to Fournos almost exclusively when I went to Sedona. Eventually my business route changed and I forgot (more like misplaced) Fournos.

A few years ago, I moved to the Verde Valley and the thoughts of Fournos returned. But in my own busy world, I never seemed to find the time to make the drive over to Sedona. A few weeks ago, the Kudos editor requested a review of Foumos."Holy ouzo," I thought, "I have to take this one." It had been almost 15 years. In truth, I almost didn't take the assignment. It was like not having been to see your mother in 15 years.Well guess what. Mothers forgive their prodigal children. They never forget and their house still looks the same.

Demetrios was still cooking right where I left him. Shirley (aka mom) is still the warm and genuine person she always was (that will never change) and the food is just as good — maybe better. They still serve sincerity, passion, love and high principles. Those have always been, and will always remain, the house specialties. They also serve shrimp, lamb, chicken, pastitsio (Greek lasagna), and a feast of constantly changing specials. They are all still individually prepared. There are still only a handful of tables, set close enough that you can casually converse with the neighbors, and if everyone is cooperative, share a little of your meal.You still enter next to the kitchen where you can still watch Demetrios perform his magic on a stage built for one (one look and you will understand his economy of space principal). And you can still feel free to bring flowers and chocolate. It's always a great way to greet your mom. And feel free to stand and applaud Demetrios at any time, many do.

Fournos is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday with seating at 6 and 8 p.m. Reservations are strongly recommended by calling (928) 282-3331. Fournos is located at 3000 W. Arizona 89A, Sedona.

Author, Steve Ayers, Staff Reporter, sayers@verdevalleynews.com